TT? i& 



First Course in 

Modern Mechanical Methods of 

Home Sewing 



Copyright 1920 
The Institute of Modern Sewing Tl C 



1 '4> 



Institute of Modern Sewing, Inc. 



SEWING COURSE 



Digitized by the Internet Archive 
in 2011 with funding from 
The Library of Congress 



http://www.archive.org/details/firstcourseinmodOOinst 



Lesson No. 1 



The Care And Use Of The Sewing Machine 



©CI.A576327 



I 



LESSON No. 1 



THE CARE AND USE OF THE SEWING MACHINE 



Oiling and Cleaning 

Sewing machines require to be cleaned and oiled daily if they are used continuously all day 
long. If used moderately for only a few hours a day, oiling and cleaning twice a week is 
sufficient. 

A good quality of sewing machine oil should be used, and a small drop applied to each 
bearing where there is any friction, as often as may be required. 

The face plate and the needle plate of the sewing machine should be removed occasionally to 
clean away the lint and dust which collect. The bearings should be oiled inside when the face 
plate is removed. The shuttle race requires occasional oiling, as well as the ball bearings in the 
treadle and in the pitman. The rufHer and the tucker also require, occasionally, a small drop 
of oil. 

Machines which are gummed from using poor oil should be oiled with kerosene or 
benzine, making sure that there is no flame in the room when such volatile liquids are being used. 
The machine should be run long enough to cut away the gummed oil, and then should be thor- 
oughly cleaned and oiled with good sewing machine oil. Attention to these details will increase 
the life of the machine, make it run easier and lighter, and also permit it to do better sewing than 
it could otherwise accomplish. 



Adjusting the Tensions 



All sewing machines require occasional tension adjustment to suit the stitch to various 
fabrics. There are two tensions : the upper and the lower. The upper tension controls the 

thread as it comes from the spool — the lower tension controls the 
thread as it comes from the bobbin. 

To tighten the tension turn the adjusting screw to the right — to 

loosen the tension turn the adjusting screw to the left. This applies 

equally to both upper and lower tension. The upper tension is adjusted 

by means of the thumb screw, the lower tension by means of small 

Testing the Tensions screw, which is turned with a screw driver. 




(in. i) 



A stitch which approixmates perfection in appearance will best be obtained by an equal 
amount of tensions above and below. ( See 111. 8. ) 

The shuttle tension spring should occasionally be removed from the shuttle, and all the lint 
and dust or knots of thread should be removed from under this spring and then the spring 
properly replaced. This applies to both round and long shuttle. 



(111. ; 

Thread 
Should 
Rest in 
Groove 



The Needle Should be Correctly Placed in the Sewing Machine 
to Avoid Cutting Thread 

it is quite possible with most sewing- machines to set the needle with the groove in 
the wrong position, so that every time the wheel is turned the thread is cut. 

The needle should always be set in such a position that the thread passes down 
and rests in the long groove, then passes through the eye of the needle resting in the 
short groove until it reaches the point. When the needle is thrust through the cloth 
the thread then rests safely in the groove and is thus protected. (See 111. 2.) 

A needle with a dull or bent point or one which is defective in any way should 
never be used. It is much cheaper to use the required size of needle than it is 
to have work spoiled. A bent or imperfect needle can injure your fabric and com- 
pletely ruin the appearance of the seams, by puckering and breaking threads in your 
cloth. 



/ \ / 



(111. 3) 

Note Eyes in 
Same Position 



Selecting Proper Needles 

In buying needles, if you find it necessary to accept a substitute which perhaps 
was not made for your sewing machine, you should always measure the needle 
from the top of the shank to the eye, and that measurement should be exactly the 
same as your original needle. Whether the point is a trifle longer or shorter does 
not necessarily matter. (See 111. 3.) 



Your Machine Should Feed Straight 

A machine should feed straight without guiding the cloth when the presser foot is placed 
directlv in the center of a straight piece of material. A machine which does not do this is 

defective in one of three ways. It either has a poor needle, 
a defective feed or a defective presser foot. Try sub- 
stituting a new needle and if this does not cure the defect 
then have a repair man attend to the presser foot or feed 
immediatelv. 




Proper Sized Needles and Thread 

One should not expect to get good workmanship when 
(III. 4) using poor thread or a needle which is too large for the 
Sewing Straight Sewing Crooked thread or perhaps too small for it. 

The thread should be selected to suit the fabric which 
i> to be stitched, and the needle correctly selected to fit the 
thread. Reasonably fine thread always gives better results than thread which is too coarse. 

For a fine material such as organdie, fine lawn, batiste and similar fabrics, one should use 
from 120 to 150 thread with a needle which corresponds. 



Regulate Your Stitch 

The stitch should then be regulated to suit the thread which is being used. In other words, 
after having given all other conditions due consideration do not spoil your bit of workmanship 
by using a long, coarse stitch. The adjustment of the length of the stitch is such a small matter 
that it is very easy for any woman to learn, and one should become so thoroughly accustomed to 
this that a stitch may be regulated without any difficulty whatsoever. 

The Adjustment of the Belt 

The belt should be neither too tight nor too loose. If it is too loose, power is wasted by 
having the belt slip and the machine will not run full speed. If it is too tight it causes the 
machine to run very hard. 

One should avoid getting the belt soaked with oil, as it will invariably slip and cause difficulty 
if this is done. 

Every machine should be supplied with a belt punch, which enables you to shorten or lengthen 
your belt as you find it necessary. 

The Adjustment of the Presser Foot and the Feed 

The presser foot rests on the feed holding the cloth in position while the 
needle is doing the work. 

This pressure should be light or heavy, according to the fabric to be 
stitched. Heavy fabric requires heavy pressure and light fabric a lighter 
pressure. 

For chiffon, net or fine silks and other similar materials, release the 
Adjusting Pressure ' pressure by turning the adjustment screw to the left. Increase the pressure 
on Presser Foot f or neav y materials by turning the adjustment screw to the right. The screw 

will be found on top of presser bar. (See 111. 5.) 

Winding Bobbins 

Great care should be taken in winding bobbins to have the thread placed on the bobbin 

smoothly and evenly. This will insure an even run of thread from the shuttle, and will prevent 

die line of stitching from having a wavering appearance which will occur if 

lllillllllli the thread comes off the shuttle in jerks. 

Illlllltllllilili T , .. . .. ■ , , . . , . t . .. , . 

If the points mentioned herein are given careful attention and you learn 

(ill. 61 and master them thoroughly it will then be very easy indeed to use the 

° Wound 0ptr Attachments on the machine. 

A machine which stitches straight with its own presser foot will make 

perfectly even tucks, will stitch the hem a short distance from the edge, will 

iniiiiiiiilimillni n curn un der the binding evenly, and stitch it evenly, and will do edge-stitching 

li.iii, ■: l ,i| , :;|,"i' ,, ,j]f and all other line operatintis with the greatesl possible ease. 

A machine which does not stitch straight with its own presser foot will 

(in.7) under no circumstances do satisfactory work with the Attachments, nor will 

A Bobbin Improperly •, , -, , • , ,, r i • i- , • ,1 

Wound it be possible even with the most careful guiding to stitch a straight seam. 

You must learn to properly thread the machine and shuttle from your instruction book. 




Before beginning to sew a long seam be sure the bobbin contains enough thread to com- 
plete the seam. 

All adjustments may be made without removing the Attachment in use from the machine. 

Always raise the needle bar to its highest point before fastening any Attachment to the 
machine. 



Projects for Lesson No. 1 



(a) Tighten your upper tension by turning your adjusting screw to the right and loosen 
your lower tension by turning the adjusting screw in the shuttle to the left. Your stitch will 
appear like this — 



(III. 8) 
(Make Sample of a Perfect Tension) 



(b) Loosen your upper tension by turning the adjusting screw to the left. Your stitch wil 
then appear like this — 



(III. 9) 
(Make Sample of a Loose Upper Tension) 



(c) Adjust your machine for a perfect stitch by having upper and lower tensions as nearly 
alike as possible. Use the same number of thread on top as in the shuttle. Your correctly ad- 
justed tension should have this appearance — 



(111.10) 
(Make Sample of a Loose Tower Tension) 

(d) You must spend at least one hour of practice with your tensions. Adjust your tension 
perfectly for heavy cotton material, thin organdie or lawn and silk. Make a small sample about 
six inches in length of perfect stitching on each of these materials. 

(e) Take out your needle and reset it at least 12 times and each time thread up your machine 
and test your stitch to see that it works properly. 

(f) Adjust the pressure on your presser bar for thin material and for heavy material. If 
you have had difficulty with the print of the feed showing on line silk or chiffon, it is because 
the pressure was loo heavy. Make a small sample of stitching on heavy material and on thin 
silk or georgette. 

All samples of above work are to be sent direct to the Institute. 

(g) This project is to be worked out in the presence of your instructor: 

Remove belt. 

Shorten stitch to limit. 

Loosen both tensions. 

Release pressure on presser fool. 

Remove needle. 

Put machine in order and adjust for making perfect stitch. 

(All samples of work to be sent to the Institute.) 



Lesson No. 2 



The Cutting Gauge And Binder 



LESSON No. 2 



THE CUTTING GAUGE AND BINDER 



The Cutting Gauge and Its Value 




(in. 11 ) 

The Bias Cutting Gauge 





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N«l 






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A' 




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iss 


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A' 








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(111. IS) 

Fold the Cloth as Indicated by the 
Dotted Lines 



Have you ever noticed this little Attachment, 
For^Tndfng which is made to fit on the point of your scissors and 
For Cording ^-^ch j s usec i f or cutting bias bands? This Cutting 

or Piping o ° 

Gauge is included in your set of Attachments. If you 
have overlooked it you will now be most interested in learning to 
use it and you will wonder why you did not discover it sooner. 

If, by any chance, you do not find the Cutting Gauge in your 
box, your instructor will supply you with one. 

The Cutting Gauge will measure and cut your bias bands for 
use with the Binder. The following directions will enable you to 
easily make up a supply of these bands to be kept in your sewing 
machine drawer or sewing basket, ready to bind seams, arms'-eyes, 
and to help in many other ways with your sewing. 

Purchase one yard of thin lawn and fold it as shown by the 
chart. It is very necessary to cut your material on a true bias. 
Material that is not cut on the true bias will not successfully bind 
curved lines or around corners. 



To Cut Binding For Use With the Binder 

Adjust the blue spring on the Cutting Gauge to the letter B. Attach the bias gauge to the 
point of the scissors as shown in 111. 13. Tnsert your material in the gauge and cut your bands 
as shown by 111. 14. 





Jjj of an inch in width. 



Your bias strips to use with the Binder must measure from ",-< to 
Material with no starch should measure }{| of an inch, while starchy material should measure ~s. 
If the correct width is not obtained by adjusting the blue spring on your gauge to the letter "B," 
adjust it a trifle wider or narrower, as the case may be. A trial with the Binder will quickly 
determine the proper width. 



To Join Your Bias Bands 

The seams on your bias strips should be made as close to the edge as is safe in order that 
they will run properly through the Binder. The edges can lie trimmed after the stitching is made. 

Lay the two diagonal ends together as shown in 111. 16 and stitch in a seam. It will then 
be seen that when the strips are lapped back the edges will be exactly even. Do not join your 
strips as shown in 111. 15. 





(111. 15) 



The Wrong Way 



(111. 10) 
The Right Way to Join Strip-s 



The Binder and How to Use It 

Substitute the Binder for the presser foot, following the directions given in your instruction 
book. Your instructor will assist you with this part of your lesson. 

Cut the binding to a point with the scissors. Insert the point in the scroll of the Binder 
until the binding comes through the scroll and under the foot. It may be necessary to draw the 
binding through the scroll with the stiletto or the point of the scissors. As the binding passes 
through the scroll both edges are turned in neatly. 

Binders are of two types: those which are adjustable for the distance of stitching from the 
edge, and those which are not. The stitching should always be close to the edge, in order to have 
the proper appearance. 




The Adjustable Binder, at Work 

However, if you do not have the adjustable type of Binder the working principle is the same. 
Your instructor will tell you which type you have with your Attachments. 

After you have inserted the binding in the Binder Attachment lower the presser bar and 
proceed to sew. You will find that the Attachment folds the cloth as the machine stitches the 
folds together. The edge to be bound should be held in the scroll of the Binder as shown in 
the illustration. All seams to be bound should be stitched and then trimmed close to the row of 
stitching. 



Using No. 6 Folded Tape With the Binder 



Tape which may be purchased ready folded can be used with the Binder. This tape must be 
one-half inch in width and you will find that the number 6 will be the proper width in all stan- 
dard makes. 

The tape is inserted in the outside slot of the Binder as shown in 

111. 18. In this same manner ribbon or braid may be used. It must be 

one-half inch in width. 



Note. — We would advise that you purchase a roll of unfolded 
tape ready cut for use with this lesson. It will save you much 
time. Your instructor will supply you with a 24-yard roll for 
thirty cents. 




(111. IS) 
Ir.sertirg the Folded Tape in 
the Binder 



Projects for Lesson No. 2 

(A) Binding of Proper Width to Use With Binder 

Cut a strip of lawn on the true bias, 20 inches long and % i*icJh wide. Cut this strip into 
three separate pieces and stitch together with the machine. The seams are to be trimmed ready 
for use with the Binder. ( See 111. 16.) 




(B) A Bound Seam 

Your teacher will demonstrate and assist you with 
each operation for thi: lesson. 

This is the first samjJe to be made ; master thor- 
oughly. Sew up a straight or bias seam with the presser 
foot and trim off the edge about J /& inch from the 
stitching. Adjust the Binder to stitch as close to the 
edge of the binding as possible, with the particular kind of 
material you are using. Insert the edge of the seam in 
the scroll and bind. The finished sample should measure 
about six inches in length. 



Sample Mafic of Lawn or Muslin 



(111. 19) 



(C) An Outside Curve 



The adjustment feature of the Binder will require 
practice for this operation. Care must be taken by the 
beginner in adjusting this Attachment for a curve, as a 
wider adjustment is necessary than for a straight seam in 
order to keep the stitching directly on the edge. The 
edge of the cloth at all times must be held well in the 
scroll of the Binder, and if the curve is sharp it may be 
necessary to stop the machine and raise the presser bar in 
order to turn the cloth properly. The outside curve is 
used in making such articles as aprons, scallops, collars, 
children's clothes, etc. 




(111. 20) 

Sample Made of Lawn or India Linen 



(D) An Inside Curve 




(111. 21) 
Sample Made of Lawn or India Linen 



The material is held as nearly as possible in 
a straight line when binding a curve of this kind. 
1 f the cloth is liable to stretch, it is well to add a 
row of stitching close to the edge before binding. 
The outside and inside curves are conditions 
which you meet in your dressmaking and the time 
spent in practicing these two operations will lie 
well worth while. The inside curve is used in 
binding the neck and armholes of garments. 



(E) An Open Bound Seam 



This illustration shows an open seam of 
heavy material with both edges bound. The 
garment is first fitted and the surplus material 
(rimmed from the seam, leaving one inch or less 
on each side. Each edge is then bound and the 
seam pressed flat. If the material is very sleazy 
and bias, it is sometimes necessary to stitch close 
to the edge before binding. This is especially 
l rue when using rattine or voile. 

Serge dress seams are often finished in this 
manner. 



■HMMOMB 



(111. 82) 
Sample Made of Heavy Linen or Broadcloth 



(F) A Bound Placket 



This finish is practical for children's drawers, sleeves, 
etc., where a wide overlap is not desired. The seam is 
held as nearly as possible in a straight line, taking care not 
to sew in too deeply at the point, as this might cause a 
plait or fold to form. On children's drawers it is not 
objectionable, however, to bind in the fold, as it insures a 
safe seam. This same condition is met with in binding 
scallops, and it would be well to include a row of scallops 
in this lesson, as they are very much in vogue at the 
present time. Black or white folded tape of taffeta silk 
may be purchased in any department store. This is ex- 
cellent for finishing the bottoms of scalloped dresses or 
underskirts. Your sample, however, may be made of any 
material bound with white lawn. 



(111. 28) 
Sample Made of Lawn or India Linen 

(G) Bound Buttonholes 
These Buttonholes are Easy to Make and Wear Well 

They are practical for children's waists and drawers, the back of dresses, pinafores, the 
back of princess slips, for the front of tailored shirtwaists, and for any garments where a 
tailored finish is desirable. 





(111. 24) 



Directions for Making 

Do not try to work out these directions by "mental arithmetic," but sit down at the machine 
and make some of the buttonholes in order to appreciate how easy it is. 

The binding to be used with the Binder should be cut ~s of an inch wide. For ordinary 
binding as for seams, trimming, etc., the binding should be cut on the true bias. Binding for 
making buttonholes should be cut on the crosswise of the material so that it will not stretch when 
laundered. 



A shows the strip of cloth 2 inches wide. E shows the same strip with both edges bound 
with crosswise-cut binding: the pencil marks are 1 inch apart, showing just how to cut the strip 
into sections. C shows the sections stitched together in such a manner that the edges first bound 
will form buttonholes. D is C with both edges bound, completing the buttonholes. 

Always cut the first strip (A) as wide as you want the distance between the buttonholes. 

Jf the buttonholes are to be two inches apart, take a strip of material two inches wide and 
bind it as shown in B. The marks show this strip divided into sections. Each section is one-half 
inch wider than the button. If your button is one-half inch across add one-half inch, thus cutting 
your strip into pieces 1 inch wide. ( If the button is three-quarters of an inch in diameter, add 
one-half inch and cut strip into sections one and one-quarter inches wide. ) 

After your strip is cut into sections sew the nieces together as shown in C, using the presser 
foot. Bind the edges with binding as shown in D. This makes a finished strip of button- 
holes which are strong and practical for children's clothes. 




E shows the same idea worked out with finer materials ; 
the Foot Hemmer instead of the Binder is used to finish the 
first strip in order to get an effect dainty enough to use with 
dimity, batiste, etc. 

E also shows the edges sewn to another piece of cloth, 
which in the case of practical sewing would be the garment. 
This is done when they are in the stage as shown in C, 
binding the edge of the garment in with the row of button- 
holes, then stitching the other edge of the binding flat on the 
garment, using the presser foot. 



Bound Buttonholes 
(sample made of heavy muslin) 



(111. 25.) 



(H) Button Loops 



To make button loops, attach the Binder to the machine 
and stitch through a strip of binding about one-half yard 
long. This gives you a quarter-inch fold of bias cloth with 
the edges turned in and stitched securely. For each loop cut 
a strip sufficiently long to slip over the button when finished. 
Fold the loop to a point as shown in 111. 8 and sew in shape 
by hand. Insert the ends in the hem and stitch in place as 
shown in 111. 27. 




The Button Loops 



(III. 211) 






Practical Uses 


of Binder 




Binding 


dress seams. 








Binding 


around armholes. 








Binding 


seams, armholes and necks 


of corset covers 


and 


princess slips. 








Binding 


the neck and sleeves of kimona night gowns. 




Binding 


edges of kitchen aprons, 


fancy 


aprons and caps. 




Using fine binding on shirtwaist 


cuffs. 


In this way it is 


also 


US£ 


d as trimming. 








Binding 


loops for buttons. 








Bound buttonholes. 









Forming the Loops 



(111. 271 



(I) Binding With Military Braid 



This braid comes in a variety of widths and colors, also in silk or 
cotton. This year it is quite the proper finish for skirts, dresses and 
suits. Many times it is applied flat as a trimming, but more often it is 
used to bind the edge. 

The braid one-half inch in width may be used with the Binder by 
inserting it in the outside slot of the scroll. Purchase a yard of this 
braid for practice. Braid a straight edge of a piece of serge or broad- 
cloth. The next sample will be a curve as shown in the illustration. 

This braid is so loosely woven and so pliable that it will adjust itself 
to a curve perfectly. 

This braid is also very desirable for the bottom of dresses that are 
either scalloped or plain. ( See illustration below. ) 




(111.88) 

Sample Made of Woolen 
Material 




Sample Made of Any Woolen Material 



.111. 20) 



(J) Scallops Bound With Silk Military Braid 

In binding the scallops care must be taken at the point to fold the cloth in a straight line and 
sew in enough of the goods to insure a safe seam. 



(K) Straight Silk Seam Binding, Used With Binder 




Straight silk seam binding which may be purchased at 
any notion counter is a very popular finish for seams, espe- 
cially on silk or heavy woolen dresses. 

The one-halt inch width must be used with the Binder. 
Purchase a roll in either black or white and bind a piece of 
soft silk or crepe-de-chine. The illustration shows a piece of 
bias messaline bound with white silk tape. 

Do not try to bind a sharp curve with this straight tape, 
but a straight edge or slight curve may be perfectly done. 



(111. 30) 
Samples Made of Messaline and Net 



LIST OF BINDINGS 
ys inch lawn cut at home 
1 2 inch or No. 6 folded tape 
yi inch military braid 
}4 inch bias silk binding. 



Do not try to assist the feed by pulling or pushing the work. The feed requires no 
assistance if your machine is properly adjusted. 



(All samples of work to be sent to the Institute.) 



Lesson No. 3 



Making A Kitchen Apron And Night Gown 



LESSON No. 3 



MAKING A KITCHEN APRON AND NIGHT GOWN 



The Kitchen Apron 

The apron here shown requires one yard of yard wide 
percale. This is a very practical pattern, as the flare sides 
cover one well when busy in the kitchen or about the house. 

If you desire to use a plain color of contrasting material 
for the binding you may purchase it and cut bias strips as 
instructed in Lesson No. 2. If you prefer to use plain white, 
pink or blue, you may purchase a roll of 24 yards from your 
instructor. This apron is very attractive if made of un- 
bleached muslin and trimmed with plaid binding. 

It is better to buy a good quality of percale; however, if 
you find it convenient to substitute print, it will be necessary 
for you to purchase two yards, as the sides must be pieced. 
Print is only 24 inches in width, while percale is 36 inches. 

If you are using print, tear off the selvage and bind the 
seam, using the Binder. The selvage should never be used to 
finish a seam, as it will allow the material to pucker when it 
is laundered. 




(111.31) 



To Cut the Apron 

Fold a yard of material on the length-wise fold and place your 
pattern as shown in 111. 32. Your instructor will furnish you with 
a pattern. This amount of material does not allow for ties and the 
apron may be fastened with a button and buttonhole. However, if 
you desire the ties purchase y& yard more of material. 




(111. 32) 
The Pattern on the Material 



To Trim the Apron 

Bind the outside edge of the apron, using the Binder. The second row of trimming as shown 
in the illustration is called a French fold and is applied with the Binder. The apron is placed 
beneath the Attachment and the binding in the scroll in the usual manner. (See 111. 33.) 




The Binder Making French Folds 



(111. 33) 



A little practice will enable you to make attractive trimmings in this manner. Bind the 
pocket as shown in 111. 31 and attach to the apron. 

To Shape the Band 

Fold your band on the center fold and crease length-wise to 
give you the exact center line. Open and fold as shown in 111. 34. 
Stitch as indicated by the dotted lines and trim away the surplus 
material. You will find that you now have a band nicely shaped 



(111. 34) 
Shaping the Band 



and one which will fit well. 



You should complete your apron in one hour. 



Always raise the needle to the highest point before fastening any Attachment to the 
machine. 




(111.33) 



Making a Kimona Night Gown 

The kimona night gown is very popular for its simplicity and 
(he ease with which it can be made. The attractiveness and beauty 
of underwear depends upon the fineness of material and the careful- 
ness of the work, rather than the over-use of laces and embroidery. 

The night gown may be made of long cloth, nainsook, batiste or 
cotton crepe. 

Later we will teach you how to make lace trimmings and tucks 
for more elaborate underwear. 

This same simple pattern may be used for the most elaborate 
gown. The sleeves may be omitted, the bottom may be trimmed 
with tucks and lace. The neck may be cut square or V shaped. 



How to Cut Your Night Gown 



Measure from the shoulder to the ankle, and allow two inches 
for the hem. You must purchase material twice this length. You 
will also need 2V 2 yards of lace edging. 

Follow the chart here given and with the assistance of your 
instructor you will be able to cut this garment without a pattern. 
Cut the sleeves amply full, as a tight gown is most uncomfortable 
and it wears out sooner because of strained seams. If your material 
is not 40 inches in width, it will be necessary to add side pieces. 

Slip the gown over the head to make sure the neck is trimmed 
out enough. Bind the edge of the sleeves and around the neck with 
fine lawn binding. If you are making a gown of fine batiste, strips 
of this material may be used in place of the lawn. If, however, you 
are making your garment of heavier material we would advise you 
not to use it for bindings, as it would lie too clumsy and heavy. 

Start the binding for the neck at the center back and trim the 
binding close at the starting point in order that you may bind over 
this point when finishing. Turn under the ends of binding and 
finish by overhanding. 

The lace edge is to be applied to the neck and sleeves later. 
You are now ready to stitch up your long seams. 




Cutting the Gown 



(111. 36) 




Stitching Up the Night Gown 

Join the under-arm seams, placing the pins in the garment \ l /> 
inches apart and $4 of an mcn from the edge. This will allow your 
presser foot to work freely without coming in contact with the pins 
and will eliminate a basting operation. ( Note Til. 37 showing 
stitching and trimming.) 

Use a short stitch which will enable you to trim close to the 
stitching without clanger of the seam pulling out. 



To Make the French Seam 

After trimming the seam close, turn to the wrong side and 
crease on the seam. Pin up to hold this seam as you did for your 
first stitching, and sew this second seam in position, stitching it as 
narrow as is possible, and still keep the raw edges safely within 
the seam. 

This seam should never show unravelled edges on the right 
side, neither should it be wide and clumsy. 



(111. 37) 




Hemming the Night Gown 

Trim the bottom of the gown evenly, turn ]/\ inch and crease. 
Turn up a two-inch hem, pinning it in position. (See 111. 38.) [ j 

Press carefully and stitch close to the edge. When sewing in the 
hem take fullness out by fine gathers or tiny plaits after edge is 
turned. 

A 2-inch strip of cardboard used as a measure will assist you 
in making the hem accurate. 

You are now ready to apply the lace by drawing the thread to slightly full it and then 
stitching it to the edge of the binding or over-handing it by hand. French knots may be added 
in the center of the binding. This adds very much to the appearance of the finished gown. 



(111. 3S) 



To Make French Knots 

French knots which are used in embroidery are made as illus- 
trated in 111. 39. After bringing the thread up through the material, 
take an ordinary back stitch. Wind the thread or silk twice around 
the needle, draw it through, holding the coils down with the left 
thumb. Then insert the needle over the edge of the coils in the 
same hole, thus making the knot secure. Do not cut the thread on 
the underside, but pass on to the next knot. 




Making French Knots 



(111. 39) 



Lesson No. 4 

The Tucker- -Collar Patterns- -Making A Collar 

And Cuff Set 



LESSON No. 4 
THE TUCKER— MAKING A COLLAR AND CUFF SET 

The Tucker and How to Use It 

Substitute the Tucker for the presser foot. In order to do this with the greatest ease it 
may be necessary for you to consult your direction book. Always have this book handy, as it 
will save you much time and trouble, if you refer to it freely. 

The fold of the first tuck must be made by hand and creased its entire length. All subse- 
quent folds are made by the Tucker. 




The Tucker in Operation 

After creasing the first fold insert the cloth in the Tucker from the left, between the 
smoother and the blade, with the cloth to be tucked uppermost, as shown in the photograph ; 
lower the presser bar and proceed to sew, keeping the crease against the guide. When the tuck 
is finished, flatten it so that it lies in the proper direction. Proceed in like manner for the next 
tuck, creasing it along the line made by the marker, and catching the edge of the first tuck under 
the hook just in front of the marker. It is unnecessary then to guide the cloth, as the Tucker 
does it unaided. When making the last tuck, throw the operating lever back out of the way of 
the needle clamp, in order that no mark may be made where a mark is not desired. 

Table for Setting the Tucker 



For 



Set Tuck 
Guide at 



Set Marker 

so Pointer 

points at 



■jV mcn tucks with y% -inch space 










1/ 


1 


J^-inch tucks with no space . 










1 


1 


y& -inch tucks with ^5 -inch space 










1 


v/2 


^8-inch tucks with J4~inch space 










1 


2 


, T 4-inch tucks with no space . 










2 


2 


)4-inch tucks with J^-inch space 










2 


3 


J4-inch tucks with J A-'mch space 










2 


4 


^2 -inch tucks with no space . 










4 


4 


J/2-inch tucks with ^4-inch space 








4 


6 


24-inch tucks with no space . 








6 


6 


Study your Sewing Machine Instruc 


tion 


Bo 


ok 


n c 


onnection with 


this lesson 



If you observe you will find that tucking is the most popular trimming for all thin dresses, 
underwear, children's clothes, etc. In fact, scarcely a dainty garment is made that does not 
require tucking of some sort. 



At the present time tucking is used on fine French underwear as well as the plainer models. 

It is not necessary to dwell long on the importance of tucking, as every woman knows how 
essential it is to understand this feature of sewing. 

But tucking to be beautiful must be well made. It must be evenly stitched and the spacing 
must be exact. How often you see a cheap ready-made garment trimmed with tucks. It does 
not attract. Why ? The stitches are long and the thread is coarse. This brings us to the vital 
part of the Tucker lesson — how to make beautiful tucks, tucks which are a real trimming. 

Before attempting to make tucks for a dress or apron, try out your Tucker with a square of 
cloth. Spend a little time practicing, making various kinds of tucks with different spaces be- 
tween them, until you know how to adjust the Tucker exactly as you want it. Use fine thread, 
from 100 to 150, with a needle to match. Have your tensions adjusted to give a perfect stitch. 
Always be sure to fasten the adjusting screw firmly so that the Tucker guides will not shift. 

How to Do Cross-Tucking 

First tuck the cloth lengthwise, then tuck crosswise across the tucks. Cross-tucking is ex- 
tremely ornamental and may be made in many different ways. For example, you can tuck, bias 
across the first tucks, which gives a totally different effect from plain cross-tucking. 




Some Combinations of Tucks with a Variety of Spacings 



(111. 41) 



Projects for Lesson No. 4 
Samples to be Six Inches in Length 



(A) Wide Tucks 



(B) Tucked Net 




(111. 42) 
The Tucker Set at Five and One-half and 
Six. Sample made of Fine Lawn. 




Sample Made of Net 



(111. 43) 



(C) Cross Tucking 



(D) Bias Tucking 




Sample Made of Fine Lawn 



(111. 44) 




Sample Made of Fine Lawn 



till. I.".) 



(E) Collar Patterns 

A Flat collar may be made by cutting a pattern as shown in the illustration. The outside 
edge of the collar may be round instead of square if desired. If you wish to fit a collar to a 
certain dress lay the center back seam on a piece of paper and trim the shape of the neck. Cut 
shape as desired. 



FLAT COLLAR 



SLIGHT ROLL AT BACK 




SHOULDER SEAM 




SHOULDER SEAM. 



ROLL COLLAR 




Take a dart at center Neck as shown in 
chart. This will slightly roll your collar. 



SHOULDER. SEAM. 



COLLAR A8CO SLIGHT ROLL- 
COLLAR ABC*D MORE I20LLING. 



By following lines here shown you will 
be able to cut roll collars. 



(F) A Dainty Collar and Cuff Set 

Xow that you have practiced with your Tucker and 
have made your samples of various size tucks we are 
going to ask you to make a 24-inch square of cross- 
tucking. This tucking is to be made on fine organdie. 
A very fine stitch is to be used and a perfect tension. 
Do not forget, too. that you are to use a fine needle to 
correspond with the thread and material you are using. 
Set your Tucker for a pin tuck and your space at V/z. 

You may use the pattern which your instructor will 
furnish you or you may draft your own. Maybe you 
have a dress which you would like to freshen up and you 
have a style collar in view that will look well on the dress. 

After your tucking is finished and your collar and 

cuff set cut out it is to be trimmed with a narrow, fine 

lace edge. The set illustrated will recpiire Z l /> yards of 

edging. If you select your own pattern, measure around 

(in. 46) the edge and allow sufficient lace for turning the corners 

properly. Stitch the lace in position with the machine and then turn back the material and make 

a second stitching. You may overcast this raw edge if you desire, but we feel sure it is quite 

safe if trimmed close. 

Bind around the neck and the edge of the cuffs with fine lawn, using the Binder. 

Figure the cost of this collar set and compare it with the price of ready-mades. Isn't this 
saving worth while ? 

(AH samples of work should be sent to the Institute.) 

A Suggestion for Applying Cross-Tucking to an Undergarment 





Lesson No. 5 



The Edge- Stitcher 



LESSON No. 5 
THE EDGE-STITCHER 

The Edge-Stitcher makes the sewing machine itself more 
valuable. It makes it possible for the unskilled operator to do 
the most perfect stitching. A crooked line of stitching will 
actually spoil the appearance of a finished garment. If the Edge- 
Stitcher is not with your machine your sewing instructor will be 
glad to supply you with one. 

Directions for Using the Edge-Stitcher 

The Edge-Stitching Attachment is fastened to the machine 

in the same manner as the presser foot. The different slots 

which are numbered from one to five in the illustration serve as 

(in 4i> guides for sewing together laces, insertions, sewing in position 

folded or hemmed edges, bias fold materials, piping, etc. 

The Edge-Stitcher is adjustable for the stitching in relation to the edge of the garment, lace, 
etc., by means of the lug A at the side of the Attachment. 





(111. 4S1 

How to Adjust the Edge-Stitcher 

To adjust, move lug A (see 111. 47) at the left of the Attachment to the right or left until the 
desired adjustment is obtained. When sewing two pieces of lace together it is very necessary 
that the Attachment be adjusted to stitch exactly on the edge so that the edges will not fold over 
when laundered. 

Always use a line needle and thread when sewing laces together, as this greatly improves the 
appearance of the finished work. 

The edges of lace or soft material should be held slightly overlapped when operating the 
Edge-Stitcher to prevent the material from feeding away. When the Attachment is properly 
adjusted the most inexperienced operator can sew yards of lace or other material together with 
no difficulty. 



A Variety of Trimmings Made With the Edge-Stitcher 




Fig. 1 — Rows of insertion sewn together. Slots Nos. 1 
and 4 are used for this class of work. 



Fig. 2 — Rows of lace and embroidery sewn together. Slots 
Nos. 1 and 4 are also used for this class of work. 



Fig. 3 — Tucking and insertion sewn together. The lace 
is placed in slot No. 4 and the folded edge of the material in 
slot No. 1. 



-Ribbon and lace sewn together. The ribbon is 
placed in slot No. 1 and the lace in slot No. 4. 



Fig. 



Fig. 5 — A band of embroidery finished on the edge with 
a narrow lace edge. The embroidery is placed in slot No. 1 
and the lace in slot No. 4. 

Fig. 6 — Lace insertion used as trimming. The lace is 
placed in slot No. 1 and the material in under the Attachment. 
After the lace is sewn in position the material is cut from the 
underside, the edge turned back and a second row of stitching 
added as a finish. 



Fig. 7 — Braid sewn 
braid is inserted in 
Attachment. 



to a garment for trimming. The 
slot No. 1 and the garment under the 



Fig. 8 — Bias folds sewn to the edge of a garment to be 
used as a finish and trimming. The bias fold is inserted in 
slot No. 1 and the edge of the garment in slot No. 5 with the 
garment wrong side up. The other edge of the binding is 
stitched in position with the presser foot. 



(ill- «) 



Fig. 9 — Folded bias tape stitched flat at the top of a hem 
for a finish. The tape is inserted in slot Xo. 1 and the edge of 
the hem in slot No. 5. The other edge is sewn in position with 
the presser foot. 



Fig. 10 — A box plait piped. Insert the piping in slot Xo. 
3 and the plait in slot No. 1. 



Fig. 11 — Bias fold material used to cover a seam. The 
folded strip is placed in slot Xo. 1 and the material under the 
Attachment. Care must be taken to keep the row of stitching 
as close to the seam as possible. The free edge of the bias 
strip is then sewn in position with the sewing foot. 



Fig. 12 — Bias fold material used to finish a curve. This 
finish is practical for underclothes. Insert the bias fold in 
slot No. 1 and the garment in slot No. 5. Turn the bias strip 
back and add a second row of stitching with the presser foot. 



Fig. 13 — A French seam stitched with the Edge-Stitcher. 
After the seam is stitched with the presser foot and the mate- 
rial turned on the wrong side ready for finishing it is inserted 
in slot Xo. 5 and adjusted for the proper distance. 



Fig. 14 — Bias fold material sewn in position. To be used 
as a stay for children's underwaists. The folded tape is in- 
serted in slot No. 1 and the srarment under the Attachment. 



(111. 50) 



Fig. 1-1 — Bias fold material used as trimming. It is quite 
easy to turn corners using the Edge-Stitcher. To turn the 
outside curve stop the machine where the corner is to be 
turned and fold the proper amount of material over, then 
insert it in the Edge-Stitcher and stitch until another corner is 
reached. It is not necessary to remove the material from the 
Attachment to turn the inside curve. Slot No. 1 is used for the 
bias tape and the garment is placed in under the Attachment. 

We desire you to practice each operation here shown. 



Projects for Lesson No. 5 



Samples of Edge-Stitching to be Made 



Samples to be six inches in length 




When sewing together two patterns of lace 
always have the one with the better finished edge 
in the slot at the left, as this is the edge that will 
show. If the feed of the machine is sharp and 
catches the lace insert a piece of paper in nnder 
the Attachment. Do not have the tension too 
tightly adjusted for this kind of work. 

This sort of trimming is very popular for 
underwear and lingerie dresses. 



(111.51) 
Sample Made of Val. Lace 



This sample is made the same as sewing 
together the laces. The lace is inserted in slot 
No. 4 and the folded edge of the material in slot 
No. 1. The stitching should come as close to the 
edge as possible when doing work of this kind so 
that the edge will not curl up when laundered. 




(111. 52) 
Sample Made of Lawn and 
Val. Lace 



Piping With the Edge-Stitcher 



-. o I 

o °.' ■';' ° |° 

o. 

b - o o 

o .... 

. . o 
o ■ ■ o o 



O - • 

DO 



• o 

- - o o 

o 

■ o - 

o 

o .... 

■ o 



This trimming is used mostly for children's 
clothes and house dresses. The piping is inserted 
in slot No. o and the finished edge to be piped in 
slot No. 4. 

If a narrower piping is desired the piping is 
inserted in slot 3 and the edge in slot 1. 

This piping slot is made the proper width to 
take the No. 5 folded piping that may be pur- 
chased in the department stores. 



(111. 53) 
Sample Made of Percale or any 
Washable Material 



A French Seam 



Many times when using fine material where 
the seam shows through plainly, a crooked seam 
will spoil the appearance of the finished article. 
A French seam may be perfectly stitched by using 
the Edge-Stitcher. After the first stitching is 
made with the presser foot and the garment 
fitted, the surplus material is trimmed away and 
the second turning made. This folded seam is 
inserted in slot No. 5 and adjusted for the desired 
width. The Edge-Stitcher will guide this seam 
perfectly. 




(111. 54) 
Sample Made of White Lawn 



(All samples of work to be sent to the Institute.) 



Lesson No. 6 



Making A Chemise And Cross- Tucked Medallions 



LESSON No. 6 
MAKING A CHEMISE— USING THE EDGE-STITCHER AND TUCKER 

Materials required : 

2y± yds. Batiste 
6 " Insertion 
5 " Edging. 

This attractive combination is made of pink batiste and trimmed with 
val. lace and insertion. It requires no pattern, as your instructor will 
assist you with the cutting. (See 111. 56.) 

First tuck a piece of material 20 inches by 10 inches in groups of 
live tucks with a space of about 1 ' _> inches between the groups. The 
Tucker is to be set for a fine pin tuck. After your tucking is finished, 
trim off the edges so that it measures 8 x 16 inches. 

Always try out your Tucker on a waste piece of material before 
starting to tuck for a garment. 

Cut your yoke as indicated by 111. 57. You are now ready to sew 
your laces together for the trimming. 




(III. 55) 




H ll it 1*1 |l| ! 


J 1 -i 




\ a 


















l|l 






A 


rfcr 






■ 




(111. 50) 
How to Cut Your Chemise 



Mow to Cut the Yoke 



(III. 57) 



Edge-Stitching the Lace and Insertion Together 

Attach the Edge-Stitcher to the machine and adjust for sewing laces together. Sew to- 
gether your lace and insertion. After you have adjusted your Attachment and started to join 
your lace, notice the small amount of time required to finish this work. You would hardly be- 
lieve it possible to do it in so short a time as compared to the tedious operation of basting by hand. 



You are now ready to apply the lace to the triangular pieces which form the yoke. Refer 
again to 111. 57 and you will find a sketch of the front and back of the yoke ready to be attached. 
1 f the yoke is too large the points may be over-lapped a sufficient amount to make it fit properly. 



Stitching Up the Seams 

Sew up the first seams in your chemise following directions given in your night gown lesson. 
After your seam is trimmed close to the stitching it is folded and inserted in your Edge-Stitcher 
for the final stitching. Follow Fig. 13, page 29, for instructions for French seaming. 

You have now had instruction in making French seams with and without the Edge-Stitcher. 
You will find many times that it is necessary to understand both ways of making this seam and 
you will be able to choose for yourself which is more practical. 

The bottom of the chemise may be hemmed and the lace and insertion stitched to the edge 
of the hem with the Edge-Stitciher, following Fig. 3, page 3, in your Edge-Stitcher lesson. 

If you desire to have this garment an envelope chemise you may add a tab and apply hand- 
made buttonholes or snaps to fasten ; or you may leave the side seams open for a distance of 
six inches and trim the edge with lace, as shown in the illustration. 



Joining the Yoke 

A band of the lace and insertion is then applied to the bottom of the yoke and to the top of 
the chemise. This edge may be finished by turning back the material and adding a second row 
of stitching and then overcast the raw edge, or it may be left trimmed close. A short stitch 
must always be used for this finish, as it insures a safe seam. A four-inch strip of lace and 
insertion is to be joined at the points of the yoke, thus making the garment low enough in the 
neck. The lace and insertion is to be joined with the Edge-Stitcher. 

The reason your ready-mades pull out so often is because of the poor stitching. You will 
find that home-made garments will wear at least twice as long as the readv-made ones. 



To Make a Round Medallion 




Sewing Lace to Paper Circle 



(111. 5S) 




Cut a piece of paper the size of the desired medal- 
lion. Measure the width of lace from edge of paper to 
find out how large the center is to be. Cut a piece of 
cross-tucking large enough to form the center, allowing 
one-half inch to turn in. 



fill. 59.) 



Baste the cross-tucking to the paper. With the 
machine sew the outside edge of the lace to the outside 
edge of the paper, and the inside edge of the lace to the 
cross-tucking, pulling^, the thread in the lace to make it 
fit into a perfect circle. 




an. go) 




Tear away the paper, turn back the free edge of 
tucking, and stitch down close to the edge of the lace. 
Trim off surplus edge of tucking close to the stitching. 
This second row of stitching makes the medallion 
stronger. Pull out first stitching put in the edge of lace. 
A medallion of any shape can lie made in the same 
manner. 



(111. Gil 



Cross-Tucked Medallions Applied to an Undergarment 




Lesson No. 7 



The Ruffler And Shirr er 



LESSON No. 7 



THE RUFFLER AND SHIRRER LESSON 




-c 

- D 



(111. 62) 



Substitute the Ruffler for the presser foot, by placing the Ruffler foot (A) in position on the 
presser bar. The forked arm (B) of the Ruffler should first be set astride the needle clamp. 
Tighten the Attachment screw firmly by turning it to the right, then turn the hand-wheel slowly 
to see if the needle passes through the center of the hole in the foot of the Ruffler. The lines 
1. 2. 3, 4 and 5 show how to place the different pieces of cloth in the Ruffler. 

If you do not have the type of Ruffler here shown these directions for attaching and ad- 
justing will apply. The forked arm (B) on all Rufflers is practically the same and the adjusting 
screw is usually at location (C). 

Study your Sewing Machine Instruction Book in connection with this lesson 



To Adjust the Fullness of the Gather 

Insert the cloth in the Ruffler between the blades, following line two. Lower the presser 
bar and proceed to sew. Now turn the adjusting screw (C) to the right: you will find the 
fullness is increased as you turn this screw down. Now turn the screw up, or to the left, and 
notice how the fullness decreases. Adjust your Ruffler for an ordinary gather and lengthen the 
stitch on your machine. You will now note that the gathers are scant, but the plaits arc not as 
fine and perfect as when the fullness is decreased with the adjusting screw. 

To increase the fullness turn the adjusting screw to the right. To decrease turn to the left. 



Gathering to Fit a Given Space 

Because the Ruffler can be adjusted for fullness, both with the Ruffler adjusting screw and 
with the machine stitch regulator, it is impossible to have a device on the Ruffler for adjusting a 
certain amount of fullness to a given space. The quality of material also has much to do with 
the amount of gathers taken up. For example — a starchy piece of material will not gather as 
full as a softer quality with the Ruffler set at the same fullness. 

The Ruffler can be adjusted for this work by loosening the upper tension until the gathers 
slide on the thread as in hand sewing, or by gathering a smaller piece of cloth accordingly into 
a certain space by trail. The loose upper tension is a very practical way to adjust for fullness. 
A long thread must be left in taking the material from the Ruffler in order that the gathers may 
In- scattered as much as is necessary. 



The Effect of Changing Fullness of Gather and 
Length of Stitch 




This is a Full Gather with a Short Stitch 




By Lengthening the Stitch the Gathers 
Made Scant 




This is Plaiting with a Long Stitch 




llj Shortening the Stitch the Fullness 

- I i,l 



I 111. 08) 



Making Plaiting With the Five-Stitch Ruffler 




If your machine is supplied with a Five-Stitch Ruffler you will find many ways in which 
vou can apply this trimming to your garments. If it is not and you desire to have one for your 
machine ask your sewing- machine dealer to supply you with one. If you cannot purchase same 
for your type of machine you will be able to make many pretty trimmings with your type of 
Ruffler such as are obtained in 111. 63. 



If you have the Five-Stitch Ruffler we ask vou to refer to your machine instruction book 
for directions as to how this Ruffler is adjusted. The effect of this is to make one plait every 
fifth stitch, instead of at each stitch as in ordinary ruffling. The cloth is inserted and held, and 
adjustments are made exactly as in plain ruffling. 

The adjusting screw must be turned down or to the right as far as it will go for plaiting. 



The Shirring Lesson 




l 111. 65 



For shirring in rows or piping a wide ruffle the Shirring Plate must be used in connection 
with the Ruffler. 

As you will note from your practice with the Ruffler the cloth to be gathered is inserted 
between the blades. If you will try to put a wide piece of cloth between the blades, you will 
find that the separator or part to which your underblade is attached is in the way. As the 
Shirring Plate takes the place of the underblade on the Ruffler it is necessary to remove the 
separator before using the Shirring Plate. 

The separator of the Ruffler is removed either by loosening the screw on the side of the 
Attachment or by turning it over back as shown in the above illustration. Your instruction 
book must be consulted for this operation. Your instruction book will also tell you how to 
attach the Shirrer to the machine. 

After the separator of the Ruffler is removed and the Shirring Plate is attached the Ruffler 
is placed on the machine and operated as before. You will find that you are now able to place 
a large piece of material between the blades. 



To Shirr in Straight Rows 

Crease the material in rows the proper distance apart, then press witli a hot iron and stitch 
on the creases. The Quilter may also be used to guide your rows of shirring. Your instructor 
will tell you how. 



Projects for Ruffler Lesson 

These samples may be made of strips of muslin cut cross-wise and hemmed or not as the 
student desires. We would advise at least two hours' practice with the Ruffler before making 
your final samples. 




A Plain Ruffle 

The material is inserted in the Ruffler following line 2. 

Make one plain ruffle with tension set for regular sewing 
and one with a loose upper tension, showing Ihow the gathers 
can be made to slide on the thread for adjusting to fit a 
certain space. 



(111. 6(i> 



Ruffling and Sewing to a Band or Garment 
at One Stitching 

Insert the ruffle between the blades, following line 2 and 
the strip which represents the garment for the garment fol- 
lowing line 1. 

You will learn from this practice that it would be very 
easy to make an undergarment and sew the ruffles in position, 
gathering at the same time. Ruffles may also be gathered and 
stitched to a dress by placing the garment under the Attach- 
ment and the ruffle between the blades. For this sort of 
trimming, however, it would be necessary to finish tilie heading 
of the ruffle before inserting it in the Ruffler. .Many times a 
picot is used as a finish for both edges of the ruffle. This 
finish must be made on a special hemstitching machine and 
the charge for this work is about ten cents a yard. You will 
probably find a hemstitching shop in your town. 




i 111. G7) 



■ 

H 

: I m ; 











Ruffling, Sewing to Garment and Adding 
a Facing at One Operation 

The garment is placed in the Ruffler, following line 1, the 
ruffle following line 2 and the facing following line 3. 

It will be necessary for you to guide these bands, keeping 
them well in the Attachment. You will not find this difficult 
to do. 

You will readily see what a great amount of time can be 
saved through using your Ruffler for such operations as this. 



(111. 68) 
Sewing a Ruffle to a Garment and Sewing 
a Facing at One Stitching 



Piping a Ruffle 

If the ruffle for this operation is to be more than V-/> 
inches it will be necessary for you to use your Shirring Plate 
for this operation. Your lesson on the use of the Shirrer 
will explain why. The ruffle is to be placed in the Ruffler. 
following line 2, and must be pulled through so that the finished 
edge comes to the right of the blade. The last guide on the 
Ruffler underblade can be used to keep this heading even. 

The piping is placed following line 4 and the band, 
which has first been folded, is inserted following- line 5. 




tin. tin) 

Piping a Ruffle and Sewing it to Finished 
Band at One Operation 



If you have the Five-Stitch Ruffler, the following samples are to be made. If not. make one 
sample using the fullest ruffle and the longest stitch, both with and without a band. 




Plaiting 

Adjust the Ruffler for plaiting, following the directions 
given in your instruction book. Try out the Ruffler. using 
various lengths of stitch in order that you may know just the 
effect the stitch has on the plaiting. Try the Ruffler with a 
scant plait by turning the adjusting screw to the left. 

Make your sample on organdie and crease down each 
plait as the Ruffler makes it. You will find it much easier to 
press your plaiting if you do it in this way. 



(111. Til) 
Sample to be Made of Organdie. Five- 
Stitch Plaiting 





(111. 711 
Plaiting and Sewing to a Band or Gar- 
ment at One Stitching 



I 11 c Sue. i Plaitii! F.,i i n 



(111.72) 



The sample of plaiting and sewing to a band at one operation is made exactl) as directed 
for making a ruffle and stitching to a band at one sewing, except that the live-stitch device is 
used. 

You will find it quite easy to make pretty collars and vests now after learning how to use, 
the Ruffler. You will also find it quite easy to make trimmings for summer dresses. 



(All samples of work to be sent to the Institute.) 



Lesson No. 8 
The Hemming Lesson- -Hemming A Towel 

MAKING A TAILORED PLACKET 



LESSON No. 8 
THE HEMMER LESSON— HEMMING A TOWEL 

For the inexperienced operator, the Hemmers require more practice than any of the other 
Attachments, so do not become discouraged when the first hems you make are not perfect. The 
material must be guided at all times so that too much or too little goods will not be fed into 
the Attachment, causing the hem to be uneven. 

The rule for operating the Hemmer can be applied to the Foot Hemmer, Adjustable Hem- 
mer or the Hemmer Set. Attach the Hemmer in place of the presser foot. Beginning at the 
point where the hem is to start, fold up one-eighth of an inch of the edge for a distance of about 
two inches, creasing the fold. Insert the folded edge in the Hemmer from the left, bringing it 
up and around the spoon, then draw it toward you until the beginning of the hem is under 
the needle. Lower the presser bar and proceed to sew. If too little cloth is fed in, hold the 
cloth to the right; if too much is being fed in, hold the cloth to the left. 

The Adjustable Hemmer is used with some machines in place of the Hemmer Set. By 
simply loosening the screw, and sliding the guide to the right or left, the Hemmer is adjusted 
for a wide or narrow hem. 




Cut of Hemmer with Cloth Inserted 



ill. 73) 



The rule that must be followed when using the Hemmers is to hold the cloth in a straight 
line after it is inserted in the Attachment. 

When hemming over a seam, always press the seam as flat as possible before starting to sew. 

Never pull your material, as this will cause it to stretch and your hem will not come out 
even with the garment. 

When hemming soft material that is liable to stretch it is better to insert a piece of paper 
over the feed to prevent the goods from puckering and the hem from stretching. 

Paper should also be used to hem a soft bias edge, as it will keep the cloth from stretching. 



Table linen may be run through the Hemmer without using thread. Your linen will then 
be ready for the hand sewing and much time saved. 



Hemming and Sewing on Lace with the Foot Hemmer 




Hemming and Sewing on Lace with the Foot Hemmer 



(111. 74) 



You will find that you have a small Hemmer very similar to the one shown in the above 
illustration. After you have learned to make a plain hem with this Attachment lace may be 
inserted in the slot at the right. You must guide your hem with one hand and the lace with 
the other. 

You must spend some time at practice with your Hemmer. You will be well repaid for 
your time, as they will save you many hours of labor. 



Projects for Lesson No. 8 
Hemming Toweling 




A small piece of toweling is to be hemmed with the size 
one or size two Hemmer. 

The material must not be pulled, as the lines will not 
exactly match if this is done. 

When hemming towels leave the thread ends sufficiently 
long in order that they may be tied, and after one thread is 
cut the other may be threaded into a hand-sewing needle and 
the edge of the hem caught together with a whip stitch. 



Hemmed Toweling 



(111. 75) 



Turning the Hem of Table Linen, Making It Ready for the Hand Work 




While it is desirable to have table linen hemmed by hand, 
the Hemmer may be used to make the turning. For this work 
the machine is not threaded. 

The size one Hemmer is used and a thread is pulled in 
the linen before starting to hem. You will find that much 
time has been saved through following this suggestion. 



(111. 76) 
Table Linen Turned with the Hemmer 



Hemming a Kitchen Towel 

Purchase one yard of toweling and hem the ends by 
using the Hemmer. Whip the hems at the edge as suggested 
in the above text. We would suggest that you use either the 
size one or size two Hemmer. 




Quilting 



(111. 77) 




Fold a crease in the cloth to be quilted as a guide for the first line of stitching, thereafter 
guiding each succeeding line by holding the cloth so that the last line of stitching made is run 
directly under the guide, as shown in the illustration. 

(All samples of work to be sent to the Institute.) 



Sleeve Placket for Shirt 

This tailored placket ij used on men's shirts and tailored shirt waists. 

Before stitching up sleeve, placket must be faced. 

Cut opening four inches deep about one inch from fold on under side of sleeve, on stripe. 
Cut facings according to draft, point of pattern on stripe, or matching line of gash. 




-if\j 

in 



| IN 






-IN 



(III. B 



7 i- IN 



(111. A) 



Under Facing— hay right side of binding against wrong side of sleeve on under side of 
slash. Stitch l /% inch from edge ; turn facing back on seam and then on line of slash ; turn in % 
inch on other side and stitch on edge. 

For Upper Facing — Lay right side of binding against wrong side of sleeve; stitch 's-inch 
from edge. Open seam flat. Fold facing to right side, so point of placket comes in line with 
gash. Turn in J^-inch around point and on long side, stitch twice across just below end of 
gash. 



Lesson No. 9 

The Braiding Lesson— Making A Linen Scarf 

Smocking 



LESSON No. 9 
THE BRAIDING LESSON— MAKING A LINEN SCARF 




Directions for Using the Underbraider 



(111. 79) 



Insert the braid in the Underbraider by threading it through the tube, then attach it to the 
machine as shown in the instruction book. Always use the braider foot, which is cut away in 
the front, when using the Underbraider. (See 111. 81.) 

To Copy Braiding Designs 

Braiding designs may be purchased at any pattern counter and should be continuous as 
nearly as possible. Use several sheets of ordinary wrapping paper if you wish to save copies of 
any pattern ; pin the design to the sheets and stitch with the sewing machine without usin°- 
thread in the needle. The braider foot instead of the sewing foot should be used for this 
work, as it allows the operator to follow the design better, just as in braiding. The perforated 
pattern is then pinned or basted to the material and after the design is worked the paper is 
torn off. 

To Start Braiding 

Insert the braid in the Underbraider and attach it to the -machine. 

Lower the presser foot and stitch for a short distance to make sure the line of stitching 
comes in the center of the braid. If it is to one side adjust the Braider over slightly by pushing 
it with the screw driver. The stitch for braiding should be of ordinary length unless the design 
consists of short curves ; it is then better to have the stitch a trifle shorter. The braiding design 
should be stamped on the wrong side of the material. 

To Turn a Square Corner 

With the needle piercing the braid, raise the presser bar and turn your cloth in the proper 
direction, lower the bar and proceed to sew. By following these directions you will be enabled 
to turn a square corner perfectly and at the same time keep the goods from puckering. 



Finishing the Ends of Braid 

When the braiding is finished punch a hole in the material with the point of the scissors 
or the stiletto, push the braid through to the wrong side and fasten by hand. If care is taken 
when doing this the hole made by the stiletto can hardly be detected. 

Kinds of Braid to Use 

Several different kinds of braid may be used with the Underbraider, but the most popular 
is soutache, which comes in silk or cotton. Another braid that is used for fancy work such as 
pillows, scarfs, etc., is the pigtail braid. This braid also comes in silk or cotton and in a variety 
of shades and colors. The s;old and silver cord braid can also be used with the Underbraider. 




Projects for Lesson No. 9 

The braid and material can be of any color. The stitching 
must come in the center of the braid and the tension must be 
perfect. 

If your design consists of sharp curves it will be necessary 
to run the machine slowly in order to follow the pattern. 



Braiding Net 

When braiding net it is necessary to have the design 
perforated on paper, as it would be impossible to stamp on 
this material and keep it from stretching. 

It is often necessary to insert another piece of paper under 
the braider foot next to the feed of the machine. This is also 
true when braiding chiffon. This will keep the material per- 
fectly flat and the appearance of the finished work will pay for 
the extra care taken. 





Braiding With Pigtail Braid 



(til. si l 



This sample to be made of pigtail braid. When using 
this style of braid it is better in chose a pattern with the lines 
not too close together, as the braid flattens out after it is 
stitched. 

A pillow or hand hag is very effective when trimmed with 
this braid. For this sample use the design furnished by your 
instructor. 



I III. s- | 



Braided Loops 




Sew a strip of fine lawn through the Binder, 
attach the Braider to the machine and sew a row 
of braid through the center of the strip. Finish 
the loops as described in Lesson 2. 



(111. 83) 



Braiding a Scarf or Pillow 




(in. sn 
Your instructor will furnish you with a braiding pattern for a scarf and pillow. We would 
suggest that you use both, thus making a very practical set for living-room or den. Purchase 
linen or crash in tan or white as desired and soutache braid in a contrasting color. 

The scarf and pillow are very pretty made of tan linen and braided with golden-brown 
silk braid. The wide hem may be hemstitched. (See directions below for hemstitching.) 

This set will require three and one-half yards of linen or crash and three pieces of braid. 
The scarf alone requires two yards and two pieces of braid. 



To Make Hemstitching 

Hemstitching is a line of open work made by drawing out parallel threads and fastening the 
cross threads in successive small clusters. Draw as manv threads from the material as desired 



at the top of the hem. We suggest that you make a three-inch hem in your scarf. 

Baste the hem close to the drawn threads. (See 111. 86.) 

Begin at the right hand side as for hemming. Pointing the needle towards you, take up 
three or four cross threads. Bring the thread to the right and across the front of this group. 
Hold the thread in the form of a loop, and catch in the hem, then draw the needle through. 
Take the hemming stitch through tihe hem only. It should not shown on the front of the scarf. 





[111. 85 



(111. 86) 



SMOCKING 




(111. 87) 

1. Outline stitch used in embroidery; progress is away from the body; the needle is pointed 
toward the body in taking each stitch. The long stitch is forward on the surface, while the 
short back stitch is through the material. The thread is thrown alternately to the right or lower 
side of the needle, then to the left or upper side. The short back stitch is taken on each dot. 

2. Simple outline stitch, letting thread fall naturally to right or lower side of needle. 

3. Take up first two dots as for outline stitch, throwing thread to left of needle. Then take 
up second dot in second row, thread to left of needle. Now take up third dot in second row and 
throw thread to right of needle. Next, take third dot in first row, letting thread fall to right : 
then, the fourth dot in first row, throwing thread to left, then fourth dot in second row, thread 
to left; fifth dot in second row, thread to right and so on until all dots in first two rows are taken. 

Begin on third row and take up first two dots, letting thread fall to right, then take stitch 
just below second dot in second row, thread falling to right of needle. Take up third dot in sec- 
ond row, throwing thread to left of needle. This gives the appearance of a double stitch. Next 
take up third dot in third row, keeping thread to left of needle. Proceed as before. 

Note: Dots are Y\ or J^-inch apart. Stamping patterns can be bought at the stores. 



(All samples of work to be sent to the Institute.) 



LESSON No. 10 
Alteration of Shirt Waist Patterns 

MAKING A SHIRT WAIST 



LESSON No. 10 



ALTERATION OF SHIRT WAIST PATTERNS— MAKING A SHIRT WAIST 

The directions for the alteration of shirt waist patterns will also apply to any dress or coat 
pattern that you may select later on with your sewing. 

Commercial patterns are made to fit model figures and very often need alteration, just as 
ready made dresses usually need alteration to fit properly. 

For this reason we desire to teach you to alter paper patterns rather than to make a dress 
and then alter the dress. 



To Lengthen the Waist Line 




Very often a garment is spoiled because it 
is cut too short waisted. Hold the pattern up to 
your figure from the shoulder and if it is too 
short in the waist, cut the pattern as indicated 
by 111. 89. 

Separate the pattern by pasting a strip of 
paper to hold it in shape. 

The back should also be altered the same 
amount and should be cut as indicated by 111. 90. 



(111. 89) 



111. 90) 



To Add Fullness to Bust or Increase the 
Shoulder Seam 



If you find it necessary to add fullness to 
the bust or increase the shoulder line, cut your 
pattern as indicated by 111. 91 and insert a strip 
of paper in the pattern. 

The back must also be altered the same 
amount as shown by 111. 92. 




Oil. on 



(111. 92) 




To Lengthen the Sleeve 



If the sleeve is too short from the under arm to the cuff cut 
the pattern as shown by 111. 93. 

You must always alter a sleeve at these two points in order to 
keep the proper shape. If you take the length from the sleeve all 
from the elbow down the sleeve will draw and pull up. 



(III. 93) 



To Add Fullness to the 
Sleeve 



If the sleeve is too tight cut the pattern through the center as 
shown by 111. 94. If you then find it necessary to tighten the sleeve 
at the cuff it can be done by taking it in at the under arm seam 
from the elbow down. 

The sleeve should not be altered from the elbow down until 
after it has been attached to the arm hole. 




(III. 9-fl 



To Shorten the Waist Line 




For a short waisted figure over lap the pat- 
tern as shown in 111. 95 and pin or paste the fold 
in position. 

The back must also be altered as shown in 
111. 96. 

CAUTION. Do not make the mistake of 
folding too large a tuck. It is better to measure 
the figure and then the pattern to make sure that 
they correspond. 



(III. 95) 



(in. no 



To Make Smaller in the Bust or Shoulder 
Line 




Cut the pattern and overlap as shown in 
111. 97. 

Measure the pattern and if the back is also 
too full overlap at the point shown in 111. 98. 

A garment is very often unsatisfactory be- 
cause it does not fit properly. A pattern which 
is too full in front or back will cause the garment 
to bulge and hang in a very ugly manner. 



(111. 97) 



(111. 98) 



To Shorten the Sleeve 



Overlap the pattern at the two points indicated by 111. 99. 
Never alter from the bottom or the top of the sleeve only as it will 
spoil the shape. 

Never try to alter the sleeve for length by cutting off the bot- 
tom as this too will spoil the appearance of the finished sleeve. 




an. 99) 




To Make Sleeve Narrow in Width 

Overlap the pattern as shown in 111. 100. The under arm waist 
seam should be taken in the same amount to make sleeve properly 
fit the arm hole. 

Never take the fullness from a sleeve by sewing in a deep 
seam. Always alter as here directed. 



(III. 100) 




MAKING A SHIRTWAIST 



This attractive blouse, which is made of fine white 
organdie, can be fashioned from lawn, batiste or thin silk 
if you prefer. However, we believe you will be more 
pleased if you select organdie, as this material is easily 
laundered and quite easy to sew on. 

If made of 40-inch organdie it will require: 

2 l / 2 yards of material @ .75c $1.88 

One-half dozen buttons 10 

Thread (size 100) 05 

Total Cost $1.65 



(111. 101) 

The lesson on the alteration of patterns will allow you to properly fit the plain shirt waist 
pattern you purchase for use with this lesson. All trimmings arc added before the blouse is cut. 

Measure the amount of material required for the length of the front, and if your material 
is wide enough to allow for the cutting of the two fronts from the one width, tuck both sides 
of the material. If the material is not wide enough to allow for the cutting of two fronts measure 
enough for two fronts and make your tucks in one continuous length. 

To Trim the Blouse 

Tuck your material in two groups of five pin tucks very close together. These clusters should 
be started about two inches from the edge of your material and should be two inches apart. Make 
two clusters of tucks. The space between the tucks will allow for your plaited trimming to be 
attached. 

To Cut the Strips for Plaiting 

The strips for plaiting should be cut on the cross wise of the material from selvedge to sel- 
vedge and may be measured and cut with your cutting gauge set at "F." Measure around your col- 
lar, cuffs and down the front and allow three times this length for plaiting strips. Cut sufficient 
strips and sew them together in one continuous strip and then hem one edge with the narrow foot 
hemmer. Press well before plaiting. 

Plaiting the Strips 

Try out your ruffler with a small piece of the material you are using for your blouse. Set 
your stitch to bring the plaits quite close together. If you do not have the five stitch ruffler vou 
may set your ruffler for a fine scant gather or you may use the fullest plait and the longest stitch 
that the machine will make. Plait or gather your strips and bring to next class. Also bring 
material for washable dress, and dress pattern 8475 Pictorial Review Style P>. or another pattern 
of similar style; so we can start it in our next lesson. The pattern will state the number of yards 
required for the width of material you are using. Note illustrations given in lesson No, 11 
when selecting your pattern. 



LESSON No. 11 
Making the Blouse- -Continued 

A WASHABLE DRESS 



LESSON No. 11 
MAKING THE BLOUSE CONTINUED 

Before this lesson you will have made the tucks and the plaitings for your blouse. You will 
also have fitted your paper pattern so that you are ready to cut the blouse after the plaiting has 
been attached to the front. 

To Apply the Plaiting to the Front of the Blouse 

Find the center of the plain space between the groups of tucks and place the unfinished 
edge of the plaiting on this line. Fold back front of waist so that wrong side of goods faces up. 
Stitch front edge of fold using the presser foot for a guide. This makes a receiving tuck that 
holds the ruffle. This tuck may be stitched flat on the right side. This operation will be care- 
fully explained by your instructor. 

Cut the blouse after the tucks are made and the frills applied. Lay the front of the pattern 
on the ruffled and tucked length of goods, so that the first group of tucks begin at the point of 

shoulder and collar line, having tucks and ruffles turned toward the 
arm. Cut back plain, or for extra trimming several groups of 
tucks may be added. Cut a piece of goods 2 l /i inches wide for 
front box plait, turn edge on both sides and baste plaiting. At- 
tach to right front, face with plain material and stitch on right side, 
one row of stitching fastening all together. This method of making 
trimmings and cutting a garment from a plain commercial pattern 
is one which we believe you will find of untold value to you. 

(111. 102) 

This method will also enable you to make quite original trim- 
mings both for your underclothes and for your shirtwaists and dresses. 

The shoulder seams and under arm seams should be basted with the seam on the right 
side. If the seams need to be taken up or let out they should be pinned while the garment is 
on the figure. 

The sleeves should be made and the cuffs attached before being set in the arnrs-eye, as it 
is much easier to handle a sleeve than a whole blouse. Particular attention should be paid 
when sewing in sleeves that they hang properly. Follow the notches on your pattern carefully 
when cutting your blouse, as they will assist you in placing your sleeve. 

As you will note from 111. 101, the tiny frills make attractive trimmings for the collar and 
cuffs also. Cut two collars and four cuffs, one for lining. Place edges even with the ruffle in be- 
tween stitch, then turn to the right side and press. Raw elges are all inside and collar and cuffs 
are then joined to their proper places. 

The cuffs are fastened with tiny pearl buttons. These buttons are also used for the front 
fastening. The bottom of the blouse may be hemmed and a tape or elastic band run in or it may 
be left sufficiently long to be tied. 



Hand Made Buttonholes 

While it has been our desire all through this sewing course to teach as little hand work as 
possible we believe you will agree that there is nothing that can take the place of hand made but- 
tonholes to finish a blouse. You will find that your garments go together so quickly when using 
our mechanical sewing methods that you will have time to apply a hand made touch to finish your 
garments. 

Buttonholes should always be of even distance apart. You should, therefore, measure very 
carefully just where each button hole is to be cut and only cut them as you make them. If you 
cut several of the holes before sewing them they will stretch out of shape. Many button holes 
are very unsightly because of this trouble. 

To prevent the material from slipping and making an uneven cut we would suggest that 
you baste around the buttonhole before cutting. Buttonholes are stranded to hold them in shape 
while working. Bring the needle up at one end of the buttonhole, and allowing the thread to 
lie along the cut on the right side of the material, sew down at the opposite end. Do the same 
on the opposite end of the cut and sew down opposite the first stitch and fasten the thread. If 
the material is inclined to fray it is better to overcast the buttonhole before working it. 



*s 



To Make the Buttonhole Stitch 

Place the buttonhole over the forefinger of the left hand, holding it in position with the 
thumb and finger. Begin to work the buttonhole close to the end. Insert the needle and while 
it is pointing towards you, bring the thread from the needle eye around to the left under the 
needle. Draw the thread through and you will see that it forms a purl on the edge. Con- 
tinue these stitches to the end of the buttonhole taking care to sew in the same amount of 
material each time you make a stitch. 

To Finish the End of the Buttonhole 

When you have reached the end of the cut in your buttonhole, pass the thread up and 
down through the goods until two or three threads cross the end of the slit close to the button- 
hole stitches. This will form a bar. Take several buttonhole stitches over this bar and con- 
tinue to make the other side of the buttonhole. 

Care should be taken not to cut the buttonhole too large for the button to be used. 

A Washable Dress 

We are now ready to begin our washable dress. 

Read directions which come with your pattern very carefully, test and alter same, pin pat- 
tern to material and cut dress under the direction of your instructor. If your dress is to be 
tucked, you will make your tucks first, unless pattern allows for them, then place material on pat- 
tern and cut. 

After the dress is cut it should be basted and fitted ready for finishing. Stitching skirt, 
waist and sleeves and finishing placket should be done at home, also plaitings. ruffles, etc. 

As the majority of people are wearing their dresses 6 inches from the floor we are furnish- 
ing a 6 inch ruler which we think will be very useful to you in hanging your skirt and in number- 
less other ways. If you prefer your dress shorter you will probably be able to buy a skirt hanger 
in any of the department stores at a nominal cost. 

Lesson 12 should be well studied and all simple projects worked out before class. Chose 
from any of the following designs the style of trimming you are going to use. You will note 
that many ways of trimming the same pattern can be worked out. 



Organdie and Cross Tucks 




Simplicity is the keynote of this lovely little frock of batiste or 
voile. In making the peplum for this dress, we first make our piece 
of cross-tucking the width Ave desire, stitch the lace on each side, 
then cut the material for the hem twice the width of the finished 
hem plus J^ inch for a turn on each edge. 

Stitch lace on to double hem. From the desired length of the 
finished peplum, subtract the width of hem and the cross-tucking 
and cut the upper section this amount, plus two inches allowed for 
finishing. 

Join lace to upper section of peplum, and follow general direc- 
tions for making waist and sleeves. 



Serge and Military Braid 



There is nothing smarter than a tailor-made frock of tricolette 
or serge, and this model is especially suitable for these materials. 

Military braid makes a very effective trimming for this dress. 
The braid can be stitched in position with the edge-stitcher without 
basting. Measure and mark with tailor's chalk where the braid is 
to be sewed, attach edge-stitcher, and proceed with your work. 

Ease braid when stitching so material will not pucker. It 
would be well "to try it on a small piece of material first. 

Follow all general directions for washable dress except for 
seams. All seams in wool must be plain, and finished with binding. 





Flowered Voile and Tiny Ruffles 



This charming dress can be made of flowered voile, and 
trimmed with ruffles of the same. Ruffles are very pretty and 
effective and launder easily. They are also a time-saver, as they 
can be made and sewed to dress or trimmings at the same time. 

Another way to trim this dress would be to have ruffles and 
belt of taffeta to correspond with predominating color in dress. 

And there is still another way, and that is to pipe the reversed 
hem on pepluni, collar, vest and cuffs with satin. Belt of satin. 
The pipings can be cut with the bias gauge. Some people may 
prefer to have vest of tucked white organdie. 



Chambray or Gingham and Tucks 

This practical and stylish little dress can be made of chambray, 
gingham or linen. Your tucker will come in very handy with this 
model. 

In making peplum, if your pattern does not call for tucks, allow 
3 inches more on the length for 8 tucks. Set your tuck guide at 1^ 
and your marker at 3. This makes the tuck a trifle over j4, inch 
and the space between the tucks )/\ inch wide. 

In making the vest of tucks and lace, it would be well to tuck 
a strip of material first. After the strip is tucked, lay on pattern, 
and cut off the desired lengths, join the lace to the strip with the 
edge-stitcher. 

For the collar cut off 3 l / 2 or 4 yards of material (on the 
length) 5 inches wide. After it is all tucked, trim each side so that 
it measures 4 inches. This gives a more even edge. The edge of 
the collar and cuffs can be bound or piped with plaid or striped 
material if one wishes it. Crushed or plain belt of material. 




White Organdie and Frills 



.--£<s 




This dainty little frock can be made of plain white organdie, 
trimmed with narrow plaitings of colored organdie, or of colored or- 
gandie trimmed with white plaitings, or again it can be made of 
organdie in any shade which you may desire, and the trimmings can 
be made of the same material. 

The width at the bottom of the skirt varies according to the indi- 
vidual. The young girl usually likes extremes, so her skirt is anywhere 
from 45 to 48 inches around the bottom. For the average person we 
have found \ l /> yards, a satisfactory width. 

The peplum or over-skirt is a little fuller and for the young girl we 
would suggest V/2 yards, and for others 2 yards. You will notice 
that the peplum has a reversed hem, the directions for which are given 
in this lesson. Set the plaiting at top of hem and stitch in place. 

Plaitings can be edged with very narrow val. lace if you wish 
your frock to be a little daintier. As the cuffs and collar are double 
cut four pieces for cuffs and two pieces for the collar. 

We will assume that your plaitings are all finished. Baste plait- 
ings around outside edge of upper collar, laying right sides together, 
then baste under part of collar to plaiting, stitch *4 mcn seam turn 
to right side and baste around outside edge. See that collar and lining 
lie perfectly smooth, and then baste around neck-line. Baste collar to 
waist, and finish with a narrow bias facing of same material. The 
right side of facing is laid to right side of collar, stitched, then turned 
to wrong side of waist and stitched again. The cuffs are made the 
same as the collar. 



Vest 

Cut vest and turn one inch to wrong side. Baste in plaiting to fold on wrong side, turn back 
% inch of the inch you have turned over and turn again so that all raw edges are covered up. 
Now stitch vest on right side, and if the facing is carried up far enough one stitching will sew 
plaiting in place and also catch in facing. After your sleeves, collar and vest are put in place 
the dress is ready to be put together. 

Adjust gathers of skirt and peplum to belt and baste; gather waist at bottom, and pin to 
top of belt and then when properly adjusted sew, turn raw edge of waist in and sew to skirt 
again. The belt can be made of ribbon in a contrasting shade, or can be made of the same 
material. If the belt is to be made of the same material, cut double, lay right sides together, 
stitch and turn inside out. See that belt is smooth, then press but do not stitch belt again on 
the outside, as that takes away from the daintiness of the dress. Tack belt on very lightly. If 
one wishes to have a sash, belt could be cut very much longer and tied in back. If you do not 
care for a sash, the belt can be fastened under the arm with snaps. 



LESSON No. 12 



A Washable Dress, Continued 



LESSON No. 12 

WASHABLE DRESS — Continued 

Pictorial Review Pattern 8476 or similar style pattern. 
Type — Afternoon dress. 

Materials 

Voile, organdie, dimity, gingham, chambray, linen. 

Trimmings 

Lace, tucks, self-trimmings, such as ruffles or plaitings, reversed hem finished with cord or 
piping and buttons. 

Findings 

Net or Seco silk for lining if desired; ]A yard of material 72 inches wide, or 1 yard of ma- 
terial 36 inches wide. 

Belting, waist measure plus 3 inches. 

Snaps, hooks and eyes. 

Thread. 

Pattern. 

1 . Test and alter pattern. 

2. Follow general directions. 

Do not forget to allow for all tucks and plaits before cutting. 

Preparing Belting 

3. Always shrink your belting before making up the dress, as you will find after it is laundered 

it will be from )A inch to 1 inch too small around the waist, and will cause you a great 

deal of trouble and inconvenience to fix it. 
Allow waist measure plus two inches. 
Turn one inch hems to wrong side and stitch. 

Sew the eyes to the left side so the loops extend out beyond the end of the belt about '4 inch. 
Set the hooks back on the right end about Y\ inch, so when the belt is hooked, the ends of 

the belt will just meet. 
Mark center front or center back. 

Basting 

4. Piaste seams in waist, sleeves, skirt and peplum, allowing for placket on the left side of the 

skirt. 

Gather skirt and peplum at the top, waist at the bottom, and sleeves at the top and bottom 
if necessary. 

Turn reversed hem on the peplum and pin. 

Turn hem in top of vest, and bind the sides. 

Close center seam of collar. 

Lay the right sides together and stitch around the outside of the collar. 

Turn and baste to waist with center back and notches matchinsr. 



Fitting Skirt 

5. Put the belt on the figure. 

Pin the center front and back of the skirt to corresponding points in the belt. 
Draw up the gathers and fasten. 

Adjust the fullness at the waist line, so the gathers fall straight, and so skirt hangs evenly 
at the bottom. Pin. See that the center front and center back fall in vertical 
directions. 

Attach the peplum in the same way. 

Waist 

6. Pin the vest in place. 

Pin the center front and center back to belt. 

Draw up the gathers at the waist line and arrange on the belt. Pin. Take in or let out 
extra fullness at the seams on the right side. 

Fit neck. See that the waist does not wrinkle. Mark armhole line. 

Pin sleeves to place and notice length. Look for general lines and ease of fit. 

Mark new seam lines if alterations are necessary. 

Baste again and refit to see if alterations are properly made. 

Seams 

7. Waist, %-inch French seams. 

Armhole, plain seam, bound. 
Skirt, plain seams. 

Placket 

8. Continuous binding with binder. 

Turn under the top edge and catch down by hand. The other edge is left for an extension. 

Finish at Waist Line 

9. Sew skirt and peplum to top of belt. 

Sew waist to top of belt. If a long waist line is desired, the waist should be attached to 
bottom of belt. In that case it would be well to allow 1 inch on the length. 

Turn in lower edge of waist and hem to belt, covering raw edge of skirt and peplum. 



Collar 

10. Your collar is now basted to waist with center back and notches matching, wrong side of 
collar to right side of waist. Lay bias strip 1 inch wide to right side of collar and baste 
all around. 

Stitch T 4 inch from edge. 

Turn facing over to wrong side of waist, turn in J4 inch and stitch to waist, with the first 
stitching exactly on the edge. 



Cuffs 

11. Double; lay right sides together and stitch on three sides. Turn. Lay wrong side of cuff 
to wrong side of sleeve. Stitch. Turn the seam down into the cuff. 

Turn in l /\ inch on the other edge of cuff and stitch to sleeve. 

Turn cuff back on sleeve. 

Belt or Girdle 

12. a. Double. Lay right sides together, stitch all around the edges, leaving one end open. 

Turn right side out. 

Turn in edges at open end and stitch. 

b. Single. Hem all around, arrange on figure, and tack loosely at front, sides and back. 

c. Ribbon or silk. 

Suggestions 

13. a. Sleeves may be short. 

b. An additional collar and cuff set may be made of tucked organdie. 

c. Vest may be tucked or trimmed with insertion. 

d. Vest may be made of tucked organdie. 

e. Tunic may be tucked or trimmed with insertion to correspond with vest. 

/. Reversed hem, collar and cuffs may be piped with plaid if dress is of plain material, or 
vice versa; or narrow plaiting may be set in reversed hem, vest, collar and cuffs. 

g. Pockets may be added. 



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